Around the temple are two bands of sculpture
instead of the usual three; the lower one has fine figures of
apsaras and some erotic scenes. Inside are excellent examples
of apsaras acting as supporting brackets. On the subsidiary
shrine at the south-west corner is an architect working with
his students - it is thought this may be the temple's designer
including himself in the grand plan. Around the base of the
temple is a continuous frieze with scenes of battles, hunting
and processions. The first meter or two consists of a highly
energetic orgy, including one gentleman proving that a horse
can be a person's best friend, while a stunned group of women
look away in shock.
Kandariya Mahadev:
The first of the temples on the common platform at the back
of the western enclosure is not only the largest, it is also
artistically and architecturally the most perfect. Built 1025-50,
it represents Chandela art at its finest. Although the four
subsidiary shrines that once stood around the main temple are
long gone, the central shrine is in superb condition and shows
the typical five-part design of Khajuraho temples. The main
spire is 31m high, and the temple is lavishly carved. The English
archaeologist Cunningham counted 226 statues inside the temple
and a further 646 outside - 872 in total with most of them nearly
1m high. The statues are carved around the temple in three bands
and include gods, goddesses, beautiful women, musicians and,
of course, some of the famed erotic groups. The mithuna on the
Kandariya Mahadev include some of the most energetic eroticism
to be seen at Khajuraho.
Vishvanath & Nandi:
Believed to have been built in 1002, this temple has the complete
five-part design of the larger Kandariya Mahadev Temple, but
two of its four subsidiary shrines still stand. The large image
of Shiva's vehicle, the bull Nandi, faces the temple from the
other end of the common platform. Steps lead up to this high
terrace, flanked by lions on the northern side and elephants
on the southern side. The sculptures around the temple include
the usual Khajuraho scenes, but the sculpture of women are particularly
notable here. They write letters, fondle a baby, play music
and, perhaps more so than at any other temple, languish in provocative
poses.
Matangesvara:
Standing next to the Lakshmana Temple, this temple is not within
the fenced enclosure because it is still in everyday use, unlike
all the other old Khajuraho temples. It may be the plainest
temple here (suggesting that it was one of the first built)
but inside it sports a polished lingam, 2.5m high. Early in
the morning, flower-sellers do a brisk trade in garlands for
the statue of Ganesh outside. People drape them round the elephant-headed
statue, say a prayer and as they walk away the sellers whip
the flowers off to resell!
Lakshmi & Varaha:
Facing the large Lakshmana Temple are these two small shrines.
The Varaha Temple, dedicated to Vishnu's boar incarnation or
Varaha avataar, faces the Matangesvara Temple. Inside this small,
open shrine is a huge, solid and intricately carved figure of
the boar incarnation, dating from around 900 AD.
Chausath Yogoni & Lalguan Mahadev:
Standing beyond the tank, some distance from the other western
group temples, this ruined temple is probably the oldest at
Khajuraho, dating from 900 AD or earlier. It is also the only
temple constructed entirely of granite and the only one not
aligned east to west. Chausath means 64 - the temple once had
64 cells for the figures of the 64 yogonis who attended the
goddess Kali. A 65th cell sheltered Kali herself. A farther
500m west is the Lalguan Mahadev Temple, a small, ruined shrine,
dedicated to the Shiva and constructed of granite and sandstone.
Mahadeva:
This small and mainly ruined temple stands on the same base
as the Kandariya Mahadev and the Devi Jagadamba. Although small
and insignificant compared to its mighty neighbors, it houses
one of the Khajuraho's best sculptures - a fine sardula figure
caressing a lion.
Devi Jagadamba:
The third temple on the common platform is slightly older than
the Kandariya Mahadev and of a simpler, three-part design. It
was probably originally dedicated to Vishnu, but later dedicated
to Parvati and then Kali. Some students believe it may still
be a Parvati temple and that kali image(or Jagadamba) is actually
an image of Parvati, painted black. The sculptures around the
temple are again in three bands. Many of the two lower band
images are of Vishnu with sardulas in the inner recesses. But
on the third and the uppermost band the mithuna again come out
to play.
Chitragupta:
The fourth temple at the back of the western enclosure does
not share the common platform with the other three. Similar
in design to the Devi Jagadamba, this temple is probably slightly
newer and is unique at Khajuraho in being dedicated to Surya,
the sun god. Attempts have obviously been made at restoration,
but it is not in as good condition as other temples. Nevertheless
it has some very fine sculptures, which includes processions,
dancing girls, elephant fights and hunting scenes. In the inner
sanctum, Surya can be seen driving his chariot and seven horses,
while on the central niche in the south facade you can see an
11-headed statue of Vishnu himself; the 10 others are of his
incarnations.
Parvati:
Continuing around the enclosure, you come to the Parvati temple
on your right. The name is probably incorrect since this small
and not so interesting temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu
and now has an image of Ganga riding on the back of crocodile.
Jain Museum:
Outside the Jain enclosure is the modern circular gallery, filled
with statues of the 24 tirthankars..